About enamel jewelry
Enamel jewelry is beloved for its glossy, colorful appearance. Enamel has been in jewelry making since the 1200s in China and Persia. It was flourishing again during the Art Nouveau era and had its comeback in the 1970s.
Multiple iconic pieces, such as Panthere De Cartier, Webb Kingdom Collection or the VCA pieces from 1920s are still sought after. Today enamel is also widely used in jewelry design.
Enamel is a specifically formulated glass powder or a paste applied to a metal. After the application it gets heated up to 950°C.
Here are some of the most popular enameling techniques in jewelry making:
– Plique-a-Jour
It’s the most difficult among enameling techniques. Plique-a-Jour was especially popular among such the Art Nouveau artist as Rene Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Peter Carl Faberge. The name can be translated from French as “to let light in”. The method allows light to go through the piece and make it glow. It’s done by applying the enamel powder in between of the little metal sections while using the foil to hold it together. After the enamel solidifies, the foil gets removed. This process creates a stained-glass appearance with delicate colors and lights comes from within.
– Cloisonné
Cloisonné – or hard enamel – is done by layering enamel past the metal line. But first the design is stamped into a metal base. Then it gets polished down to the level of the metal. Due to the lengthier process, Cloisonné is considered more durable and higher quality.
– Meenakari
This technique begins with the design being engraved onto to the metal. Then the enamel is filling the etchings. To achieve a vibrant color that meenakari jewerly is famous for, the piece is polished with organic acids. A layer of the transparent enamel finalizes the process.
We have a great selection of enamel jewerly online, or you can see it in person while visiting our store in Beverly Hills.
About Victorian jewelry
Victorian jewelry is dated from 1837 to 1901. The era’s name was inherited from Queen Victoria who reigned during that time. Her significant input shaped the jewelry style of that time.
To navigate in such a vast period, historians divide it into following parts:
- The Early Victorian or Romantic
- The Middle of Grand Victorian
- The Late or Aesthetic Victorian Era
Different materials, gemstones and technics belong specifically for each era. Some styles though remained in favor longer than during one period. For instance, hair jewelry made its way from the Romantic through the Grand period. Snake and animal motifs were also in demand throughout the era.
- Early Victorian jewelry
As to the Queen influence, Romantic Period jewelry had well pronounced sentimental vibes. It was the time when young Queen Victoria was in love with her husband, Prince Albert. And the whole nation admired their relationship. Cameos, matching brooches, miniature portraits and lockets reflected the likeness of loved ones. After Albert’s passing in 1861, the Early Victorian Period ended, and The Grand era began.
- Grand Victorian jewelry
After the incandescent bulb invention in 1870s, diamond jewelry started thriving like never before. Diamonds, being placed under the electric light, revealed their dazzling nature and looked truly fascinating.
Besides Victorian diamond jewelry, mourning jewelry massively gained its popularity, reflecting the Queen grieving state after Albert’s passing.
Opulence and larger scale prevailed in the Grand Victorian jewels style. It was the time of booming economy, and makers picked up the trend.
- Late Victorian
The Late Victorian jewelry makers stepped away from creating massive, heavy pieces. Women lifestyle changed towards independency. They got involved in new activities such as bicycling and tennis. To keep up with the new clientele’s needs, Late Victorian pieces were lighter and more wearable. Attached safety pins became very handy and this element is the era’s design feature.
Tiffany & Co. introduced their first solitaire diamond engagement ring during the Late Victorian time. Etruscan and Egyptian revival, along with the Oriental motifs kept being popular. Another typical style for the period was a choker necklace.
The Aesthetic period and the whole Victorian era ended with the Queen Victoria’s passing in 1901.
See our selection of the Victorian jewelry for sale here.
