Jane Allen Art Nouveau Gold Enamel Necklace


Jane Allen
18k Yellow Gold
38 grams
The chain’s length is 28”
JA, Crown, 18

An Art Nouveau necklace by English maker Jane Allen is a unique piece made in 18k gold and
blue-green enamel.
The enamel elements are lily pad-like links, decorated with the tiny gold frames and granules.
They are spaced by the gold bars and connected by the rings. The soft enamel hue and slender
bars make this Art Nouveau necklace look delicate and sophisticated. It’s an artisanal jewel that
will turn any casual outfit into an authentic attire.
The necklace is stamped with British and London assay office’s hallmarks, a hallmark for 18 k
(as “18” which is 18k fineness stamp before 1975), the maker’s mark and cursive “q” (1971-72).

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    About Botanical Motifs in Jewelry Design

    Botanical motifs in vintage jewelry design have an enduring appeal. Floral-inspired jewelry has always been popular, especially during the Early Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Edwardian eras. But it really took off from the Georgian period onward. Whether as the main element or a delicate touch, flowers were a favorite theme. You’d find them everywhere, from cluster rings to diamond brooches and corsages with flower sprays. Floral symbolism appeared in many pieces. Back in Victorian times, people made illustrated dictionaries to explain the secret meanings of flowers. Victorians loved using flowers to send hidden messages, so jewelry often featured all kinds of blooms, like forget-me-nots, daisies, roses, and tulips, each with its own special meaning.
    Since botanical designs mimic the intricate and diverse forms found in nature, it requires a skilled maker to create a jewel. One of the most celebrated designers for their enchanting floral pieces is VCA. The Flora collection features a variety of flowers in many shapes and forms. From heart-shaped petals of Cosmos and cluster designs of Fleurette to the harmonious Lotus and extremely popular Alhambra, floral designs became a signature of the brand’s collections.

    About Enamel Jewelry

    Enamel jewelry is beloved for its glossy, colorful appearance. The material started to be in use in China and Persia back to the 1200s. It was flourishing again during the Art Nouveau era and had its comeback in the 1970s.

    Multiple iconic pieces, such as Panthere De Cartier, Webb Kingdom Collection or the VCA pieces from 1920s are still sought after. Today enamel is also widely used in jewelry design.

    Enamel is a specifically formulated glass powder or a paste applied to a metal. After the application it gets heated up to 950°C.

    Here are some of the most popular enameling techniques in jewelry making:

    – Plique-a-Jour

    It’s the most complicated to execute among enameling techniques. Plique-a-Jour was especially popular among such Art Nouveau artists as Rene Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Peter Carl Faberge. The name can be translated from French as “to let light in”. The method allows light to go through the piece and make it glow. It’s done by applying the enamel powder in between the little metal sections while using the foil to hold it together. After the enamel solidifies, the foil gets removed. This process creates a stained-glass appearance with delicate colors and lights coming from within.

    – Cloisonné

    Cloisonné – or hard enamel – is done by layering enamel past the metal line. But first the design is stamped into a metal base. Then it gets polished down to the level of the metal. Due to the lengthier process, Cloisonné is considered more durable and higher quality.

    – Meenakari

    This technique begins with the design being engraved onto the metal. Then the enamel is filling the etchings. To achieve a vibrant color that meenakari jewelry is famous for, the piece is polished with organic acids. A layer of the transparent enamel finalizes the process.

    We have a great selection of enamel jewelry online, or you can see it in person while visiting our store in Beverly Hills.