Pierrot Lunaire Vintage Brooch 18k Gold Enamel Diamond


1 in stock

18 karat Yellow Gold, 18 karat White Gold
Diamond round brilliant and single cut G-H / VS, 0.50 carat total
38.9 grams
2 ¼” x 1 ¾” x ½” (5.8 x 4.5 x 1.4 cm)
18 karat gold and French import hallmarks

A whimsical vintage brooch made of 18k gold and enamel, featuring diamonds. The brooch portrays a character from a poem called Pierrot Lunaire (Pierrot in the Moonlight). The poem was adapted into an opera, and it is likely that a scene from the show inspired this beautiful artistic piece.

Pierrot’s figure originates from the commedia dell’arte tradition. The character of Pierrot is typically depicted as a sad clown, embodying the archetype of the melancholic artist.

The clown is dressed in a gown made of opalescent enamel. The open-work collar is amazingly crafted in gold by applying various techniques such as wax carving and casting. The mime is wearing a reddish-brown enamel hat and enamel shoes of the same color. The hands and head are beautifully sculpted out of polished gold. Pierrot sits on the white gold crescent moon encrusted with diamonds.

This gorgeous vintage brooch is a special piece that showcases an exceptional artistry and craftsmanship. 

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    About Sculptural Jewelry

    Sculptural design transformed the aesthetics of vintage jewelry. During the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras, there was a profound shift in artistic taste that greatly impacted jewelry making. Fluid lines and geometric precision became defining to the creation of vintage jewelry.

    Artists and jewelers drew inspiration from nature, architecture, and the visual arts movements to convey their narratives and evoke emotions.

    The Art Nouveau movement, for instance, embraced sinuous lines and flowing curves inspired by natural motifs. On the other hand, the Art Deco movement favored bold geometric shapes, symmetry, and intricate patterns influenced by modern art and design. Sculptural elements in Art Deco jewelry often featured precise angles, stepped motifs, and sleek, streamlined designs that mirrored the spirit of the Roaring Twenties.

    The sculptural design impacted the very techniques and materials in jewelry making. Makers experimented with intricate metalwork, employing techniques like chasing, repoussé, and filigree to create sculpted details. The fusion of sculpture and jewelry during these eras passed the test of time and keeps being implemented in modern jewelry making.


    About Enamel Jewelry

     Enamel jewelry is beloved for its glossy, colorful appearance. The material started to be in use in China and Persia back to the 1200s. It flourished again during the Art Nouveau era and had its comeback in the 1970s.

    Multiple iconic pieces, such as Panthere De Cartier, Webb Kingdom Collection or the VCA pieces from 1920s are still sought after. Today enamel is also widely used in jewelry design.

    Enamel is a specifically formulated glass powder or a paste applied to a metal. After the application it gets heated up to 950°C.

    Here are some of the most popular enameling techniques in jewelry making:

    – Plique-a-Jour

    It’s the most complicated to execute among enameling techniques. Plique-a-Jour was especially popular among such Art Nouveau artists as Rene LaliqueLouis Comfort Tiffany and  Peter Carl Faberge.. The name can be translated from French as “to let light in”. The method allows light to go through the piece and make it glow. It’s done by applying the enamel powder in between the little metal sections while using the foil to hold it together. After the enamel solidifies, the foil gets removed. This process creates a stained-glass appearance with delicate colors and lights coming from within.

    – Cloisonné

    Cloisonné – or hard enamel – is done by layering enamel past the metal line. But first the design is stamped into a metal base. Then it gets polished down to the level of the metal. Due to the lengthier process, Cloisonné is considered more durable and higher quality.

    – Meenakari

    This technique begins with the design being engraved onto the metal. Then the enamel is filling the etchings. To achieve a vibrant color that meenakari jewelry is famous for, the piece is polished with organic acids. A layer of transparent enamel finalizes the process.

    We have a great selection of enamel jewelry online, or you can see it in person while visiting our store in Beverly Hills.