Enamel jewelry is beloved for its glossy, colorful appearance. The material started to be in use in China and Persia back to the 1200s. It was flourishing again during the Art Nouveau era and had its comeback in the 1970s.
Multiple iconic pieces, such as Panthere De Cartier, Webb Kingdom Collection or the VCA pieces from 1920s are still sought after. Today enamel is also widely used in jewelry design.
Enamel is a specifically formulated glass powder or a paste applied to a metal. After the application it gets heated up to 950°C.
Here are some of the most popular enameling techniques in jewelry making:
- Plique-a-Jour
It’s the most complicated to execute among enameling techniques. Plique-a-Jour was especially popular among such Art Nouveau artists as Rene Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Peter Carl Faberge. The name can be translated from French as “to let light in”. The method allows light to go through the piece and make it glow. It’s done by applying the enamel powder in between the little metal sections while using the foil to hold it together. After the enamel solidifies, the foil gets removed. This process creates a stained-glass appearance with delicate colors and lights coming from within.
- Cloisonné
Cloisonné – or hard enamel – is done by layering enamel past the metal line. But first the design is stamped into a metal base. Then it gets polished down to the level of the metal. Due to the lengthier process, Cloisonné is considered more durable and higher quality.
- Meenakari
This technique begins with the design being engraved onto the metal. Then the enamel is filling the etchings. To achieve a vibrant color that meenakari jewelry is famous for, the piece is polished with organic acids. A layer of the transparent enamel finalizes the process.
Circa:1980s
Materials:18k White Gold, Black Enamel
Gemstone:Pink Sapphire - Cushion Cut, 9.23 x 6.81 x 5.16 mm, 3.10-Carat
Weight:15.4 Grams
Measurements:Ring Top 3/4" x 1/2" (2 x 1.2 cm)
Ring Size:6; Resizing Available but Limited
Hallmarks:Unidentified Maker's Mark, 750
A gorgeous vintage 18k white gold, pink sapphire, and black enamel ring. The ring’s design centers around a rectangular top finished with black enamel. The pink sapphire is flush set into the enamel, giving the ring a refined edge. The gem’s soft hue contrasts beautifully with the glossy black background. The width of the band tapers slightly underneath, which along with the clean lines and polished surfaces enhance its architectural feel. This ring has a confident character, making it easy to style as a statement piece. It would look equally great with a tailored outfit or something more relaxed, thanks to its thoughtful design.
